Fabio Ramos from Portugal recently built up his Execute XQ10, and he documented his every step and gave some pointers for everyone looking to build their's up too!



The first thing I do before start the build is to sand some of the carbon fiber parts (chassi and shock towers), and then apply glue to close the carbon fiber ends. You can use a swab to help you applying the glue.

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After the carbon fiber parts prepared, I polish all the hinge pins, shock shafts and ball studs, this will provide a extra smooth touch to the car. Also I clean the bearings that come in the kit with brake cleaner to remove the thick grease they come with, and then I apply a very thin oil (Quick.RC oil, my own brand), this will make the bearings spin a lot more free and by consequense let your drive train more free.

Before VS After polish

A lot smoother and shiny

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This is how I prepare my bearings, and also the oil I use.

Now that we already prepared some important things before build the car, lets finally start to put the parts together! :D

  1. – Turnbuckles assembly!

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    Please, note the car comes with steel turnbuckles, you have the optional in aluminium from XPRESS, this is a must have to save some weight in your car! In the 2 previous images, is possible to check the weight difference!

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  2. – Gear Diff Assembly!

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    A small tip… You can use a silver pen to write on your diff what oil you have inside of it! By this way is a lot easier to identify each diff.

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    Here are my diffs…

    With this I know which one

    have 3k, 5k or 7k…

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    Always put 1.3g of oil in your diff! To make this in an accurate way, you need a precision weight balance!

  3. – Spool Assembly

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    Very easy to build, just be careful when you apply glue to put the side wall together with the pulley.

    You can use cloth clip to make sure the side Wall will be glued in a perfect way.

  4. – Center Pulley Assembly

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    One more time, easy to build and be careful when you glue the side walls to the pulleys! Pay attention to the gap of the center pulley in the shaft (this one you can also polish if you want). I like to leave 0.1/0.2 mm of gap.

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  5. – Steering System Assembly

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    Note: You may need to use shims to adjust the “play” of your steering… I like to have the less play possible, without get the movment “stuck”, make sure you have the less play you can, but with free movment!

  6. – Motor Mount Assembly

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    Easy to build, just follow the instruction manual and all will be fine.

  7. – Split Mount and Bulkhead Assembly And

  8. – Top Deck Assembly And

  9. – Upper Clamp Assembly

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    Is very important to have the bulkheads aligned properly! You can find

    some tools in the market to help you making it 100% aligned… just search

    for a tool for 22 mm.

    About Belt tension, I have another tip to make it easier for you to adjust it! One more time with a Silver pen, mark the belt tension regulators!

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  10. – Steering Assembly

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  11. – Knuckle Assembly 12 – Front Arm Assembly 13 – Knucle Assembly

  1. – Front End Assembly

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    In the CVD I like to use my own joint lube (Quick.RC). Another tip is to use a bit of heatshrink to close the holes and let the joint lube stay in your CVD for a long time… This also avoid dust from the track to damage and wear your CVD.

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    The final result with the heatshrink!

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  2. – Rear End Assembly 16 – Rear End Assembly

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Use a 2 mm drill to make sure the blade will run free in the CVD pin!

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  1. – Sway Bar Assembly

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    Use a bit of heatshrink to mark you sway bars… For exemple if the Sway bar is 1.3, then put 3 small pieces of heatshrink, this makes a lot easier to identify your Sway bars! And also always make sure you sway bar is

    straight in a table… If not, use a plier carefully to make it straight.

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    Make a small hole (1mm drill) in the shock cap, this will help you to make shock without or with just 10-20% of rebound.

  2. – Shock Assembly

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  1. – Shock Assembly

  2. – Rear Shocks Installation 20 – Front Shocks Installation

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  1. – Bumper Assembly

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    I cut the bumper because I preffer to put the “extra foam” in the bodyshell… Like this I can change body without have to change the bumper, once the “extra foam” is in the body! Like this:

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    Optional carbon fiber bumper plate from XPRESS, something nice to have!

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  2. – Electronics Assembly

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Use the gap of the motor mount to place your ESC cable in a safe way! This helps to make the wire installation being more organized and looking

more “clean”.

Final Result

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